The Jaeger-LeCoultre Pink Gold Limited Edition series – the Reverso Perpetual Calendar.
Released in 2000, the Reverso Perpetual Calendar was the last in Pink Gold Limited Edition series of Reverso with complications held in a Grande Taille case…
Same as the five previous in the series, the base is a Pink Gold Grande Taille case with a Silver Guilloché dial and heated blue hands…
Front side displays the time, day and night indicator and a leap year indicator.
Clean but still with some elements to make it an interesting dial to look at. The off-centre day and night indicator give life to the dial, personally I prefer this location compared to the centred day and night indicator on the Reverso Geographic… Especially if you wear your watch on your left wrist as the indicator will peak out from under your cuff!
Back side is symmetrically designed, arcs and circles for the complications on a canvas of Geneva stripes. On top is the retrograde pointer date with the Moon Phase inside the date arc and at the bottom are month- and day indicators.
I find this design very classic elegant, but maybe a bit “too correct”, with the risk of becoming a bit boring to look at in the long run. That said, I must mention I am not a big fan of Perpetual Calendars, I often finds them hard to read and their dials, either a bit busy or crammed – so if you are a fan, please disregard my comment as it is purely from a design point of view.
What I see as positive here is that all complications have been given their space – the pointer date is so large that it is easy to read and the Moon Phase is also very generous in size! Same goes for the month and day indicators.
Again, the challenge and what makes this and all the watches in this series very interesting is to see how Jaeger-LeCoultre managed to fit such complications into the small Grande Taille case!
Inside the Reverso Perpetual Calendar is the Calibre 855.
“The main difficulty of Calibre 855 stems from the retrograde date display: synchronising the retrograde date, day, month and moon-phase functions, and avoiding discrepancies in date between months.”
“Fitting 276 parts into a rectangular case with an absolute minimum of volume…”
Yes, it is easy to understand that only a Master Watchmaker would be able to make this work!
I will not even try to pretend to know how all the different gears and levers works in a Perpetual Calendar… And even if 276 parts sound like much, remember that there are a lot of things to keep track of.
Each month end, this side offers a lot of action – three hands which simultaneously “jumps”.
While on the front, except for the time – only one “jump” per year.
All the complications are adjustable with discrete pin pushers on both sides of the case.
To end this series with a Perpetual Calendar feels like a natural choice: Reverso Limited series in pink gold: 500 strokes of genius
Thank you, Jaeger-LeCoultre Heritage Gallery for letting me see this beautiful and interesting piece in the metal!
Previous reports in this series:
Jaeger-LeCoultre 1991: Reverso 60th Anniversary “60ème”
Jaeger-LeCoultre 1993: Reverso Tourbillon
Jaeger-LeCoultre 1994: Reverso Minute Repeater
Jaeger-LeCoultre 1996: Reverso Chronograph Retrograde
Jaeger-LeCoultre 1998: Reverso Geographic
One can only applaud the courage and master craftsmanship it must have taken to launch such series during that period in time!
Yes, the Reverso Limited Edition series in Pink Gold ended in 2000, but only T.W.O years after the Perpetual Calendar, Jaeger-LeCoultre launched another Reverso Limited Edition series in Platinum…
Stay tuned for more!