Jaeger-LeCoultre and the U.S. market: Special watches – the LeCoultre Sultan

For those of you who have followed the Blomman Watch Report from the start knows that today, May 4 is my and T.W.O‘s one year anniversary!

For this anniversary I will share a special treat – a hidden gem from the gentleman @roni_m_29‘s collection – the LeCoultre Sultan!

As the title say, a special watch for the U.S. market – so far I have not come across a Jaeger-LeCoultre signed Sultan which leads me to believe this model was made exclusively for LeCoultre and the U.S. market.

Before we look at the watch itself, I like to give some background story to the era which the Sultan belongs – late 1940’s, early 1950’s, post WWII.

People were tired of the hard times during the war and in fashion they seek some flair and glamour… Which not only were reflected in the design, but in the model names as well… The Sultan, the Aristocrat, the Baroness and several other eminent names…

This is the time before “tool” watches really came to the public market, fashion-wise – watches were often on the smaller side in eyes of today, 31 mm – 35 mm.

Brands offered a lot of “His and Hers” watches – similar or same in design, just in different sizes. Almost as wedding bands, brands used the His and Hers as a sales pitch.

This often made the mans watch a bit less masculine in design as the base needed to work for both male and female…

Here is one example of His and Hers from Girard-Perregaux, mid 1950’s: the facet bezel is replicated on the ladies watch in the crystal, creating a “diamond effect”

Girard-Perregaux, mid 1950s – His and Hers

Jaeger-LeCoultre or in this case, LeCoultre used the same approach – offering several His and Hers models!

Of which one was the Sultan and the Sultana!

Below are T.W.O newspaper clippings – to the left 1948, to the right 1953:

LeCoultre Sultan – left 1948, right 1953

I love to read these old ads, so seductive and alluring!

1948 – “Smartly fashioned for a noteworthy couple – hers a dainty and exceptional duplicate in every style and precision way of the fine watch he will proudly wear.“

1953 – “Perfectly matched fine watches, unique in design for a noteworthy couple -hers a dainty and exceptional duplicate of the fine watch he will proudly wear.“

Five years – almost identical description and the price is still the same: Gold Filled case 71.50 USD each – no gender discrimination on the price!

Now, let’s see the watch – all photos below are credit to @roni_m_29.

The Sultan – look at this creation, so glamours, so elegant – so very different from what we are used to see today!

LeCoultre Sultan – a futuristic Hourglass

The hidden lugs angled up to the centre, the shape extended by the crystal – so very feminine and very masculine at the same time!

I have seen other Sultan‘s with flat crystal, but when seeing this, I suspect those have had replacement crystals…

To mind comes some of the Hourglass models from the same time period made by Patek Philippe, Vacheron-Constantin and Longines… Just a bit more futuristic!

Here the in profile, you can really see the “Pyramid” silhouette!

LeCoultre Sultan – profile

On the back is says “10K Gold filled” – all document I have seen with the Sultan or the Sultana only mention gold-filled cases, so I suspect this model was not offered in any other metal.

The case I would estimate to be similar or slightly larger than the Uniplan (22 x 39.5 mm).

The case back is also shaped, see the bevels on the sides – I can only imagine how very comfortable this one is!

Inside is the Calibre 438/4CW which is based on the Calibre 424.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 438/4CW – movement specification

I have no production number for this model, but based on the documents and movement numbers observed – I would say that the time span for the Sultan is approximately, from 1948 to 1954.

Another observation is that there can’t have been a very large production of Sultan’s as you do not run into one very often!

On the wrist, the Sultan looks very smart and not as small as the measures suggests. Kind of futuristic elegance in my opinion!